Blinds, shades and curtain rod installation

Inside or outside mount

An inside mount sits within the window frame and looks clean, but the window needs enough depth and the opening must be square. An outside mount goes on the wall or trim above the window, covers the whole opening, blocks more light at the edges, and hides crooked frames. We measure depth and squareness before you order, because inside-mount blinds are cut to the exact size and cannot be returned.

Measuring for an order

For inside mount, measure width at the top, middle and bottom, and use the smallest. Measure height at left, center and right, and use the longest. For outside mount, add a few inches on each side so light does not leak around the edges.

Write which measurement is which, and note the room. We are happy to measure for you so the order is right the first time.

Curtain rods that look intentional

Mounting the rod higher and wider than the window makes windows look bigger and lets curtains clear the glass when open. A common approach is several inches above the frame and several inches past each side. Long rods need a center support so they do not sag. Heavy blackout or lined curtains need brackets screwed into framing or strong anchors, not the plastic anchors in the box.

Ceiling tracks and room dividers

Ceiling-mounted tracks give a floor-to-ceiling look and work as room dividers in studios and ADUs. They need solid fastening into ceiling joists or well-rated anchors. We find the joists and plan the track runs before drilling.

Cord safety

Window cords are a strangulation risk for young children. Cordless coverings remove that risk in homes with young children. For existing corded blinds, cord cleats mounted high and tension devices that hold loops taut reduce the risk. We install cleats on every corded blind we hang unless you ask otherwise.

Stucco and tile surrounds

Some windows are set in stucco returns or tile with no wood to screw into. We use masonry anchors and drill carefully. In bathrooms, we choose moisture-safe blinds or shades that will not warp from steam.

Patio sliders and wide windows

Wide openings like patio sliders work best with vertical blinds, panel tracks or a long curtain rod with center supports. We check that the covering clears the door handle and the screen door.

Light control in valley summers

West-facing rooms heat up fast in the afternoon. Cellular shades trap air and help insulate the glass. Blackout liners on curtains keep bedrooms dark for day sleepers and shift workers.

Solar screen shades cut glare while keeping the view. We help you think through each window by the sun it gets.

Bay windows and corners

Bay windows need rods with angle connectors or separate blinds for each panel. Corner windows need blinds that meet without a gap. We measure each panel and plan how the coverings meet before you order.

Hardware we use

Brackets from the box are often fine. Plastic drywall anchors in the box are not, for anything heavy. We bring better anchors, longer screws, and center supports, and we use them where the wall calls for it.

Swapping old coverings

Old vertical blinds, broken mini blinds and sun-rotted shades come down, and the holes get filled. If new brackets can use the old holes, we use them; otherwise we patch and paint touch-up as needed.

Multiple rooms

How long a whole-house blind install takes depends on the job; we’ll tell you after seeing photos. We label each box by room before we start, so nothing gets mixed up.

Ordering tips

Online blinds are made to order. Double-check inside or outside mount, the control side, and the color before you click buy. A photo of each window with a tape measure across it, sent to us before you order, catches mistakes that are expensive to fix later.

Hiding the hardware

A valance or a cornice box hides the headrail of blinds and gives a finished look. Curtain rods mounted on the ceiling hide the top of the window frame. We help pick what fits your room style.

Timing

Most windows are simple fixes.

Tension rods and café curtains

Small bathroom and kitchen windows often suit a café curtain on a tension rod or a short rod on small brackets. Tension rods need a square frame to grip; on stucco returns we use brackets instead. These are quick add-ons when we are hanging the larger rooms.

Kids’ rooms

In kids’ rooms, cordless blinds or shades are the safest choice, and blackout shades help with naps. Rods should be firmly anchored, since kids pull on curtains. We set rods with extra support in nurseries and playrooms, and keep any cords well out of reach of cribs and beds.

Repairs

Broken slats, a stuck tilt wand or a shade that will not roll up can sometimes be fixed with a small part. We check before replacing the whole blind.

Photo checklist